Saturday, June 30, 2012

Coming Soon: July 2012 Edition

I'm kind of liking this twice a month thing. I don't feel so pressured to be cranking out projects all the time, and the ones I do I'm more attached to (and I think they turn out better). For July 2012, we have:






July 11, 2012: Bedazzled Dog "Couch" Tutorial







July 25, 2012: Jack & Jill Shortalls (pattern courtesy of Amy at http://www.naptimecrafters.com/, her shop is http://www.peekaboopatternshop.com/)

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Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Wine Cork Monogram Tutorial

A friend of mine has been collecting corks for YEARS. Friends, family, and others have contributed to her collection (including a vineyard she went to that gave her a bag of about 1,000). Now that she has all of these corks, she wants to find different things to do with them. The first idea she had was to re-purpose an old end table and cover the top of it with corks, but that idea has fallen down the list. The biggest problem is that she is not the craftiest person when it comes to things like this. Other things she's wonderful at, like jewelry making, which is not a talent of mine. For this she asked me to help out. Since a lot of the supplies are things you probably already have, the amount we spent (for the board, craft knife, and hardware) was about $15. The corks...that just takes time. Enjoy!!





Supplies

  • Foam Board (I used Elmers Foam board, 16"X20"
  • Craft Knife...medium to heavy weight
  • Serrated Knife
  • Pencil
  • Yardstick 
  • Hot Glue Gun and a LOT of glue sticks (I think I used 10 or more)
  • Mounting Hardware (aka picture hanging hardware, I like the ones that have "teeth" so you use 2 and can hang it straight)
  • A LOT of corks...I used 58 for the edges of the D alone

Construction






Step 1: With your pencil, draw out your letter on the foam board. I made the width of each section of the letter 4" wide. Use your yardstick to help keep lines straight and to measure so it is a consistent shape.

Step 2: Use your craft knife to cut out your letter once you are satisfied with it. Use the yardstick to help keep lines straight.





Step 3: Lay out your corks. On outside edges, line them up standing on end. Lay the ones inside on their sides. 

Step 4: LEAVE THE INSIDE CORKS THERE! Take the corks that go around the edges and count them. Divide that number by 2, then cut that number of corks in half using the serrated knife.

Step 5: GLUING TIME! This gets a little sticky. Glue ONE EDGE of upright corks in place. Be sure to glue them to one another as well as to the foam board for extra stability. Then do some of the interior, until you reach another edge. The last step is doing the second edge. 
                         for example: I did the letter D. I did the upright corks on the inside edge first, then all of the corks that lie flat, and finally the outside edge upright corks. This helps to make sure everything is lined up and spaced correctly.
                         Once all corks are glued in place, gently wiggle the corks (especially the ones around the edges). If you feel any give, squirt a little hot glue around the edges into the small gaps for extra stability.

Step 6: Fill in any big gaps. If you are doing a letter with curves, you are going to have a few gaps. I simply cut pieces off of a spare cork and filled in the most noticeable gaps. You will still see a bit of the board, but not enough to worry about.

Step 6: Attach your mounting hardware once the hot glue is dry.Use your yardstick to make sure they are even.

That's it! All done!

Editor's note: After looking at it on the wall when I was at my friend's house recently, I decided it needed a little more "pizazz." Soon we are going to take ribbon of appropriate thickness and hot glue it around the edges to better conceal the foam board behind the corks, as well as to give it a bit more personality!
~Stephanie

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Wednesday, June 13, 2012

DIY Dry Erase Calendar and Weekly Menu

I'll admit it. I LOVE Pinterest. I'm on there every day, getting craft inspiration, looking for decorating ideas, etc.  I am also constantly looking for functional yet cute things for the home...and I really wanted a dry erase calendar. What I didn't want was one of those white monstrosities that never looks good no matter how you try or where you put it. That's when I found This Tutorial on Pinterest and fell in love.

A couple of notes on this:
  • if you don't have a printer that can print on 11"X17" paper, no worries. I used regular 8.5"X11" and just made sure that when I created my Excel spreadsheet all of the columns added up to 17" and my rows added up to be 11". It ends up being 4 sheets of paper that you cut and tape together. HERE is my calendar...feel free to print it out. It will save you time. Oh, and HERE is the notes page. 
  • Do NOT cut off all edges of your calendar. Only the very bottom edge and the left side. That way you have extra paper on the top and right side to attach other papers to. Same goes for the notes page, but on that one I would only cut off the right edge...leave the rest.
  • I didn't put anything on the back of my creation once it was all together. I left the backing that came in the frame separate, that way should I ever want to change the look of the calendar, I have a sizing reference.
  • Leave room for overlap on ALL of your pieces...that way they can be taped/glued together
  • You can get free photoshop graphics to create your shapes, and if you make a new file in photoshop with a transparent background and save it for the web, you can put it on word, resize as needed, and print onto whatever paper you would like.
This one took me about 2 hours total, and that's only because it took me a few tries to get the sizing of the calendar right. Plus I'm really indecisive about fabric and/or paper combos, so I second-guessed myself a lot. Actual construction time was probably about 20 minutes, but you have to add in measuring and cutting, not to mention designing the different elements.
I also found a weekly dry erase menu on Pinterest. You can find that tutorial HERE. 

Here are my notes on that one:



  • I chose not to use canvas, but to line up 2 pieces of scrapbooking paper (cut to size)
  • I also put my ribbon in a different place, because I wanted to hide the seam of the paper. :)

This one only took me about 15 minutes to do...and maybe now I stand a chance of NOT hearing "What's for Dinner" every day!


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Thursday, May 31, 2012

Coming Soon: June 2012 Edition








June 13, 2012: DIY Dry Erase Calendar and Menu















June 27, 2012: Wine Cork Monogram Tutorial










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Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Kindle Fire Cover Tutorial

I just recently upgraded to a Kindle Fire from my old Kindle 2. I love it, but I really didn't want to spend $30 or more for a  cover that I *kind of* like. So I thought I would make my own. I wanted something that opened like a book, didn't have elastic everywhere to hold it in place, and that could be secured shut. I also wanted pockets to hold things...a paper here, screen wipe there. Most importantly, I wanted it to be semi-stiff, so that it would offer more protection. Since there are no Fire Cover tutorials yet, I combined features from a couple of regular Kindle cover tutorials and added my own twist as well. The two tutorials I referenced can be found at Skip To My Lou and Dixie Mango.

All seam allowances are 1/4" unless otherwise noted (and, as always, Top Stitching is as close to the edge as possible)
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Kindle Fire Cover

Supplies
  • 1/2 yard Main Fabric
  • 1/2 yard Contrast Fabric
  • 5/8 yard Fusible Peltex
  • 5/8 yard Fusible Fleece
  • Small amount 3/4" sewable velcro
  • embellishments, if desired (a button for the strap, for example)
  • Pressing Cloth
  • Matching Thread
  • Iron
Construction

Step 1: Cut out your materials
              You will need to make the following cuts. You will end up with 21 pieces.
              From the Main Fabric:
                          -2 cuts 12 1/2" X 9 1/4"
                          -2 cuts 3 1/2" X 9 1/4"
                          -1 cut 2 1/2" X 6"
              From the Contrast Fabric
                          -2 cuts 8 1/4" X 5 5/8"
                          -2 cuts 4 1/2" X 9 1/4"
                          -4 cuts 2" X 2"
                          -1 cut 2 1/2" X 6"
               From the Peltex
                          -4 cuts 8 " X 5 1/2"
               From the Fusible Fleece
                          -1 cut 12 1/2" X 9 1/4"
                          -1 cut 2 1/2" X 6"
               From the velcro
                          -1 cut 1 3/4" long

Step 2: Fuse your pieces
             Fuse the 12 1/2" X 9 1/4" piece of Fleece to one piece of Main Fabric that is the same size. This will be the outside of the cover. 
             Fuse the 2 1/2" X 6" piece of Fleece to the piece of Main Fabric OR  the Contrast Fabric that is the same size. Choose the fabric that you want on the outside of the strap. 
             Fuse 2 pieces of Peltex together. Repeat with the other 2 pieces of Peltex.
Step 3: Prepare your strap.
Attach your piece of velcro to one end of the LINING portion of the strap (the piece that won't show when the cover is closed. I usually attach the "rough" side of the velcro to the strap. With wrong sides together, take the 2 1/2" X 6" pieces of Main and Contrast Fabric (one will have the fleece fused to it) and make sure your raw edges line up. Sew around 3 of the edges, making sure that one of the edges is the one with the velcro. Turn. 


Step 4: Prepare the Kindle "Pocket"
              Fold your 4 2" X 2" squares in half, forming triangles, right side out. Press. If you want, top stitch along the crease. Place them at the corners of your first 8 1/4" X 5 5/8" contrast piece (on the right side of the fabric, with the squared corners of the triangle at the corners of the fabric (see photo). Place second 8 1/4" X 5 5/8" contrast piece on top, right side down, matching raw edges. Pin in place, making sure you keep the triangles in place.
             

Sew around perimeter twice for security, leaving a gap for turning. Clip corners and turn, poking corners out. Turn raw edges in and press...now make sure your Kindle Fire fits!

*Note: I had to sew closer to the edge than the 1/4" seam allowance I use in every other step. It is easier to make the pocket smaller than it is to make it bigger, so start out by stitching fairly close to the outer edge (1/8" if possible) and if you need to sew around further in, you can.
Step 5: Preparing the other "Pockets"
               Take your two 3 1/2" X 9 1/4" Main Fabric pieces and place them right sides together. Stitch along ONE of the long edges. Turn right side out, and press. Topstitch. This edge will be the edge of the pocket that shows (that forms the opening to the pocket). Repeat with the two 4 1/2" X 9 1/4" Contrast Pieces. Place the Main Fabric pocket onto the Contrast pocket, matching raw edges. Pin. Find the horizontal center of the pockets, and create 2 Main Fabric Pockets by sewing a seam in the center of the Main Fabric piece only. (see photo)

Step 6: Place the other piece of velcro
                Fold the main panel of the cover (the one with the fusible fleece) in half lengthwise, so that the 12 1/2" edges line up. Fold your strap in half lengthwise as well. Open both. Match the center creases, and lay the strap onto the right side of the fabric on the RIGHT HAND EDGE (see photo). With a fabric marking pencil, mark the cover where the end of the strap hits (aka where the velcro is). Fold your second (soft) piece of velcro in half so that it forms a square. Measure 1 1/4 inches to the right of the line you drew, and place your velcro, making sure to line it up with the center crease on the cover. Sew in place.
*Note: I had a hard time describing this step...if it is confusing please let me know and I will try to help. 
Step 6: Place the Kindle "Pocket" onto the interior panel
                 Fold the interior Main Fabric Panel (the one without the fleece) in half, right sides together, so that it measures 12 1/4" X 9 1/4". Finger press the fold to mark the center, so it opens like a book. Open. Now center the Kindle pocket on the right hand side of the crease, on the right side of the fabric. Pin.


                 Stitch the pocket in place, on the straight edges only, not the corners. You want the corner pieces to be a bit free so that you can get the Kindle in and out.
Step 7: Place the other "Pockets" onto the interior panel.
                  Matching Raw edges, place the prepared "pockets" onto the left hand side of the Main Fabric Interior Panel. Pin. Baste around raw edges to hold in place.

Step 8: Putting it all together
                   To place your strap, place the prepared interior panel onto the prepared exterior panel, making sure that the left hand side of the interior panel (with the 3 pockets) is on the same side as the velcro on the exterior (see photo). Fold like a book, with the velcro side of the exterior panel on top. Line up the velcro on the exterior with the velcro of the interior (matching raw edges). CAREFULLY detach the velcro, making sure to keep the raw edges in place. Lay the strap down on the side of the cover, with the raw edges where you had them lined up. Now, you want the strap to lie along the BACK of the exterior panel, so you will pinch the raw edges together, holding the strap in place, but flipping the entire cover (See picture, that's confusing). Pin the strap to the EXTERIOR panel only, but pin it from the WRONG side of the panel.

                    Now, with strap still pinned, flip so that the right sides of the interior and exterior panels are facing, with raw edges matching. Make sure that the side of the exterior panel that has the strap on it is on top of the Interior Panel side with the Kindle Pocket.


                    Stitch around edges, leaving a 6" opening at the bottom for turning (and to insert your peltex panels). Turn & Press.

Step 9: Finishing
                  Insert your peltex panels, 1 at a time, placing one on each side of the "book." Turn the raw edges at the bottom to the inside, and Top Stitch around entire perimeter of Cover.

                  With your fingers, find the gap that is between the two Peltex panels. Sew a seam in between the two...it will help keep them in place as well as help the cover to fold.

                   If you are adding an embellishment on the strap, do it now. Insert your Kindle Fire and make sure that the strap "latches" when the fire is in place. If not, take out the piece of soft Velcro that is on the main body of the cover, re-position, and hand sew in place. You won't be able to sew through the Peltex, but if you take your time you can hook the needle through the fabric and fleece and get it on there...trust me, I had to do it!

That's it, You're done!!!


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