Wine Cork Monogram Tutorial

A friend of mine has been collecting corks for YEARS. Friends, family, and others have contributed to her collection (including a vineyard she went to that gave her a bag of about 1,000). Now that she has all of these corks, she wants to find different things to do with them. The first idea she had was to re-purpose an old end table and cover the top of it with corks, but that idea has fallen down the list. The biggest problem is that she is not the craftiest person when it comes to things like this. Other things she's wonderful at, like jewelry making, which is not a talent of mine. For this she asked me to help out. Since a lot of the supplies are things you probably already have, the amount we spent (for the board, craft knife, and hardware) was about $15. The corks...that just takes time. Enjoy!!





Supplies

• Foam Board (I used Elmers Foam board, 16"X20"
• Craft Knife...medium to heavy weight
• Serrated Knife
• Pencil
• Yardstick 
• Hot Glue Gun and a LOT of glue sticks (I think I used 10 or more)
• Mounting Hardware (aka picture hanging hardware, I like the ones that have "teeth" so you use 2 and can hang it straight)
• A LOT of corks...I used 58 for the edges of the D alone

Construction

Step 1: With your pencil, draw out your letter on the foam board. I made the width of each section of the letter 4" wide. Use your yardstick to help keep lines straight and to measure so it is a consistent shape.

Step 2: Use your craft knife to cut out your letter once you are satisfied with it. Use the yardstick to help keep lines straight.

Step 3: Lay out your corks. On outside edges, line them up standing on end. Lay the ones inside on their sides. 

Step 4: LEAVE THE INSIDE CORKS THERE! Take the corks that go around the edges and count them. Divide that number by 2, then cut that number of corks in half using the serrated knife.

Step 5: GLUING TIME! This gets a little sticky. Glue ONE EDGE of upright corks in place. Be sure to glue them to one another as well as to the foam board for extra stability. Then do some of the interior, until you reach another edge. The last step is doing the second edge. 

                         for example: I did the letter D. I did the upright corks on the inside edge first, then all of the corks that lie flat, and finally the outside edge upright corks. This helps to make sure everything is lined up and spaced correctly.

                         Once all corks are glued in place, gently wiggle the corks (especially the ones around the edges). If you feel any give, squirt a little hot glue around the edges into the small gaps for extra stability.

Step 6: Fill in any big gaps. If you are doing a letter with curves, you are going to have a few gaps. I simply cut pieces off of a spare cork and filled in the most noticeable gaps. You will still see a bit of the board, but not enough to worry about.

Step 6: Attach your mounting hardware once the hot glue is dry.Use your yardstick to make sure they are even.

That's it! All done!

Editor's note: After looking at it on the wall when I was at my friend's house recently, I decided it needed a little more "pizazz." Soon we are going to take ribbon of appropriate thickness and hot glue it around the edges to better conceal the foam board behind the corks, as well as to give it a bit more personality!
~Stephanie

DIY Dry Erase Calendar and Weekly Menu

I'll admit it. I LOVE Pinterest. I'm on there every day, getting craft inspiration, looking for decorating ideas, etc.  I am also constantly looking for functional yet cute things for the home...and I really wanted a dry erase calendar. What I didn't want was one of those white monstrosities that never looks good no matter how you try or where you put it. That's when I found This Tutorial on Pinterest and fell in love.

A couple of notes on this:

• if you don't have a printer that can print on 11"X17" paper, no worries. I used regular 8.5"X11" and just made sure that when I created my Excel spreadsheet all of the columns added up to 17" and my rows added up to be 11". It ends up being 4 sheets of paper that you cut and tape together. HERE is my calendar...feel free to print it out. It will save you time. Oh, and HERE is the notes page. 
• Do NOT cut off all edges of your calendar. Only the very bottom edge and the left side. That way you have extra paper on the top and right side to attach other papers to. Same goes for the notes page, but on that one I would only cut off the right edge...leave the rest.
• I didn't put anything on the back of my creation once it was all together. I left the backing that came in the frame separate, that way should I ever want to change the look of the calendar, I have a sizing reference.
• Leave room for overlap on ALL of your pieces...that way they can be taped/glued together
• You can get free photoshop graphics to create your shapes, and if you make a new file in photoshop with a transparent background and save it for the web, you can put it on word, resize as needed, and print onto whatever paper you would like.

This one took me about 2 hours total, and that's only because it took me a few tries to get the sizing of the calendar right. Plus I'm really indecisive about fabric and/or paper combos, so I second-guessed myself a lot. Actual construction time was probably about 20 minutes, but you have to add in measuring and cutting, not to mention designing the different elements.

I also found a weekly dry erase menu on Pinterest. You can find that tutorial HERE. 

Here are my notes on that one:

• I chose not to use canvas, but to line up 2 pieces of scrapbooking paper (cut to size)
• I also put my ribbon in a different place, because I wanted to hide the seam of the paper. :)

This one only took me about 15 minutes to do...and maybe now I stand a chance of NOT hearing "What's for Dinner" every day!

Pinecone Elf on a Shelf

These are Ms Perfect's Martha's elves

I found this tutorial for Pinecone Elves and couldn't resist. We all know that the Elf on a Shelf has gotten incredibly popular (and a super fun activity!), but if you're like me $30 seems like a lot for a doll and a book. So, I thought that these little "Santa's Helpers" would be a great substitute! I made all 3 of mine for less than $10, and now I have 3 elves instead of just one. Plus, you can find Elf on a Shelf ideas all over the internet, so you can still participate in the fun!

A couple of suggestions:

• If you don't want to buy the acrylic paint (or you don't have any) for the cheeks, use pink eye shadow. I used a small eye shadow brush, wet it down a little, and dipped it in the eye shadow. Then I just dabbed it on! I felt like I had more control over it, plus, since I have a whole eye shadow palate, I had a lot of shades of pink to choose from
• When you get everything cut and sewn as you want it, use your hot glue gun to secure them in place. That way you don't risk them falling off at inopportune moments!
• Skip the bell/bead/ball on the hat. I didn't really care for it, and it's an unnecessary expense unless you already have them around the house. 

Enjoy!

These are mine, complete with the "village" I put out every year

Christmas Card Garland Tutorial

I've seen several versions of the Christmas Card Garland online, but all of them seem so specific. I wanted something that gave a little more freedom with how it's constructed, while still looking beautiful. So here's my version, hopefully you all like it!
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Christmas Card Garland

Supplies

• Wide ribbon...you can use wired or unwired, festive or plain. I would suggest 2-3" ribbon, just for stability and to get a real feel for the "backbone" of your project.
• Thin ribbon-I use this to make the "hangers" along the ribbon and at both ends
• Wood Clothespins. I got a pack of 24 from AC Moore for just under $3
• Scrapbook Paper...make this as plain or fancy as you want. You can use holiday themed or whatever suits you. (Optional, you can skip this step if you just want plain painted clothespins)
• Paint...Whatever you think is going to work best to paint the clothespins, in colors that you like and that go with the feel of your project
• Mod Podge-I used the gloss
• Foam Brush
• Small Paint Brush(es)
• Hot Glue Gun
• Scissors
• Pen/Pencil
• Waxed Paper (to make clean up easier)
• Embellishments that will fit on your clothespin (optional)

Construction

Step 1: Lay down a piece of waxed paper that is big enough to fit all of your clothespins. Paint your clothespins in your selected colors. You need to make sure to paint one "face" (the flat side), the small ends, and the two sides where the pieces of the clothespins come together. Whatever you feel will show. You only need to paint one "face" because the other one will be covered with scrapbook paper (or not, if you choose to skip that step). Make sure to do enough coats to achieve the color you want (I used 2 coats). If you are not using the scrapbook paper, skip to step 4.

Step 2: When your clothespins have dried, lay the "face" of one on the wrong side of the scrapbook paper. Trace around the edge of the clothespin, getting as close as possible. Cut out your piece of paper. Repeat for all clothespins.

Trace Around Clothes Pin

Step 3: Mod Podge your scrapbook paper pieces onto the unpainted face of the clothespins. Using the foam brush, put a layer of mod podge on both the clothespin and the wrong side of the paper. Place the paper on the clothespin, mod podged sides together, and line up edges. Make sure to press down the paper well and keep rubbing it so that bubbles don't form. When you are sure that the paper is on there to your liking, use the foam brush to put a layer of mod podge over top of the paper...it will dry clear.

Step 4: After Mod Podge has dried (I would give it overnight, it can stay a bit tacky for a while)Hot glue your embellishments to your clothespins (on top of the scrapbook paper, if you used it). I chose to use "jewels" for my embellishment, just to give it more bling. I have seen buttons, felt bows, little Christmas Trees, berries, etc. used. Just go with what feels right to you...even if that's not putting anything on there!

Step 5: Cut your wide ribbon to the length you need. I chose to make mine about 2 1/2 yards long, so that it would hang where I wanted and still have a bit of "swag."

Step 6: Cut lengths of your thin ribbon 4" long, as many as you need to achieve the swag you want. I didn't want my swag to be too long, so I cut 4 lengths. Hot glue the thin ribbon to the back of the wide ribbon at evenly spaced intervals. On the ends, make sure to fold the end of the thick ribbon back over the thin, so that raw edges don't show.

Step 7: Hot glue the BACK of each clothespin to the FRONT of the thick ribbon. Space them however you like. I tried to be as even as possible, because I'm a little OCD that way.

YOU'RE DONE! I used command hooks to hang my garland from the counter that divides my living room from my kitchen. I love these because they are barely noticable, and come off clean. 

Enjoy!

Fabric Bin Tutorial

This bin came about because my son ripped apart the wicker basket we were using for the dog toys. It's far from perfect (I was in a rush because I couldn't stand the toys to be all over the place and having nowhere to put them) but it does the job. I'm sure if you took more time it would look much better!
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Fabric Bin Tutorial
(With optional lettering and handles)

Supplies: 

1 1/2 yards fabric (or 3/4 yards for exterior and 3/4 yards for interior)*

1 1/2 yards fusible peltex*

1 yard lightweight fusible interfacing**

Small amount black felt (optional)

Rotary Cutter and mat

Iron

Pressing Cloth

* You can make the bin bigger. All steps are the same, just increase your measurements and the amount of fabric, peltex, and interfacing you purchase.

**I did not remember to get the interfacing (oops). I will describe how to use it in the project, but note that I ended up having to sew my peltex in place rather than using the (much easier) interfacing method.

Step 1: Out of your fabric, cut:

                     2 strips 3 1/2" X 11" (optional...for handles)

                     2 pieces 12" X 7"

                     4 pieces 7" X 17"

                     4 pieces 7" X 13"

              From your peltex, cut:

                     2 strips 3/4" X 8 1/2" (optional...for handles)

                     2 pieces 11" X 16"

                     4 pieces 6" X 16"

                     4 pieces 6" X 12"

              From your interfacing, cut:

                     1 piece 12" X 7"

                     2 pieces 7" X 17"

                     2 pieces 7" X 13"

Step 2: Fold each 7" X 17" piece of fabric in half. Using a straight edge and your rotary cutter, cut the fabric so that the top edge measures 8.5" and the bottom edge measures 6". Repeat for remaining 3 pieces. *The picture shows the top edge measuring 9 inches...I had to re-cut it later. 

Step 3: Repeat Step 2 with the 7" X 13" pieces, with the top edge measuring 6.5" and the bottom edge measuring 3.5". Repeat steps 2 and 3 with the interfacing.

Step 4: Repeat steps 2 and 3 with the peltex pieces....the longer pieces measure 8" on the top and 5.5" on the bottom (when folded in half) and the shorter pieces measure 6" on the top and 3" on the bottom.

Step 5:  Fuse the two 11" X 16" peltex pieces together using pressing cloth and following manufacturer's directions. 

Step 6: Fuse 2 of the 6" X 12" peltex pieces together. Repeat with remaining two 6" X 12" pieces

Step 7: Repeat step 6 with the 6" X 16" peltex pieces. If you would like lettering on the outside of your bin, continue to Step 8. If not, skip to Step 10.

Step 8: Letters. Choose a font in your favorite word processing program. Make it bold, and then make it as large as possible while still fitting into an 11" width and 5" height. I used the Showcard Gothic font and made it 135 for size. When satisfied, print it out and cut out your letters.

Step 9: Trace your letters onto the black felt.

Step 10: Cut out your letters, place them on the exterior piece of fabric, pin and stitch in place (the exterior pieces of fabric are what you will be fusing your peltex and interfacing to). 

Step 11: Center the fused 11" X 16" peltex pieces on the wrong side of the 12" X 17" fabric piece (make sure that one of these fabric pieces has the lettering on it, if you chose to place lettering on your bin). Place the 12" X 17" piece of interfacing on top of the peltex, fusible side down. Fuse in place using pressing cloth and manufacturer's instructions. Make sure that the interfacing's edges match up with the fabric's raw edges, and that the peltex is secured in place by the interfacing fusing to the fabric around the edge.

Step 12: Repeat Step 11 with the short and long sides of the bin. Remember that you will only be using 2 short side pieces and 2 long side pieces at this point, and that the peltex pieces should be 1/2" shorter on all sides than the fabric and interfacing.

Step 13: Take one short side piece and one long side piece (both with peltex). Match up one short edge of both pieces, with wider section at the top (on both pieces) and pin in place Stitch in place, using 1/2" seam (you should be sewing right next to the peltex).

Step 14: Repeat on other short edge of the long side using other short side piece. Finish by attaching remaining long side piece to the free edges of the short side pieces, leaving you with a "ring."

Step 15: Attach the bottom piece (with peltex). This part can be a bit tricky. With the right side of the bottom piece facing the right sides of your peltex/fabric "ring," pin in place. Then CAREFULLY sew in place, making sure there are no holes at the corners. You should end up with a "basket" with a top of raw edges, the interior being the right side of the fabric and the exterior being the fused peltex side. Repeat steps 9-11 with the plain fabric pieces...leaving you with 2 "baskets." If you are making straps, continue to Step 16. If not, go to Step 19.

Step 16: Make your straps. Taking your 3 1/2" X 11" pieces of fabric, fold in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch long edge (I mistakenly stitched a short edge as well, it's not necessary. Repeat with other strap piece.

Step 17: Turn straps right side out. Press.

Step 18: Carefully slide one 3/4" X 8 1/2" piece of peltex into each strap, centering them.

Step 19: Putting it all together. Turn the peltex "basket" right side out. Place the plain fabric "basket" inside of it, wrong sides together, matching short and long sides and corner seams.

Step 20: Carefully turn the raw edges of both "baskets inward and pin in place. On the short sides, place your straps (if you chose to add straps) 2" from either side.

Step 21: Carefully top stitch around top of bin, removing pins as you go. Make sure the straps are caught in this top stitching so that they have been secured. And that's it, you're done! If you're really good and you matched your corner seams exceptionally well you may be able to stitch in a ditch down the corner seams, which will further secure your interior to your exterior. As for me...it's just for dog toys, I didn't care enough to do that step!

Enjoy!

Table Runner Tutorial

I made this runner specifically for the fall. I will say that I wish I had made it about 5 inches longer, but it still looks pretty good. I am making a matching one for my dining room table as well. This runner is 55" long and 16"wide. All instructions are written for those measurements, but it shouldn't be hard to convert them to whatever size you want.
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Table Runner Tutorial

Supplies:

-Patterned fabric to run 1" longer than the desired length for your runner (for example, for this runner I wanted it to be 55" long, so I needed 56". I bought 1 5/8 yards.                                                               

-Same amount in corresponding fabric for backing and side panels (your runner will NOT be the width of the fabric, so you'll have plenty).

-Thread

-2 Packs DMC Embroidery Floss

-Cutting Mat & Rotary Cutter (unless you really want to cut all of this by hand)

-Measuring tape or ruler/straight edge

-Sewing Machine

Step 1: Cut your Fabrics. The patterned fabric panel should be 56"x13". The backing panel should be 56"x17", and the two side panels should be 56"x3".

Step 2: Attach side panels to main patterned panel. With right sides together, pin the 3" side panels lengthwise on the main patterned panel. Sew in place. I would suggest reinforcing this by using a heavier stitch. All seams have 1/2" seam allowance.

Step 3: Press seams out.

Step 4: Cut your end angle. Fold main panel in half once, then again in the opposite direction (so once hot dog, once hamburger). Using your straight edge and rotary cutter, (and making sure you're cutting the ENDS of the fabric) cut your angle, making sure that the folded edge is the long point and the raw edges are the short point. That way your runner will come to a point in the middle of each of the ends.

Step 5: Make your tassels. With each pack of embroidery floss, do the following: -Cut ONE end of the floss so that you have one end that is still folded and one end that is all "ends." Remove any short threads...there will be at least one. 

   

     -Remove 6 threads from your pack

      -Using a crochet needle or other object like a pencil, tie the folded end in a knot (see picture)

      -Pull the remaining 6 threads through the loop you have just made and  tie another knot at the top of the loop. This will be the section that is attached to the runner end.

      -Trim ends if desired

Step 6: Pin front panel to back panel, right sides together. You want to make sure your tassels are centered on the end points, with the part that will be showing in between your two layers of fabric.

The part of the tassel you see is the 6 strands that are the
attaching point, NOT the main body of the tassel

Step 7: Trim back panel to match front (and vice versa if needed). I had to trim the back panel for the angles, and the front panel so that all raw edges were even. 

Step 8: Sew around perimeter of runner, leaving one side of one pointed end open for turning. Trim tassel ends so that about 1" is still inside the runner once turned.

Step 9: Press all edges. Turn the edge you left open inward 1/2", press and pin in place. Top stitch around entire perimeter of runner.

You're done! You can use this tutorial to make a simple runner at any length you desire. Enjoy!