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Aviator Cap

I follow this wonderful woman on blogger named Amy over at Nap Time Crafters. She has a ton of great tutorials, mostly for baby, but some for herself as well. She doesn't have all tutorials, though, she also has a pattern shop where you can buy the patterns for some truly great products!

I have purchased both her Aviator Cap and her Newsie Cap, but so far have only made the Aviator Cap because, well, it's winter and the Newsie Cap isn't the warmest hat in the world.

A word of warning...measure, measure, measure! I made one that was supposed to be 19 inches, but it turned out to be 21 inches because apparently my half inch is less than her half inch, and when you're using half inch seam allowances it's important! That's OK though, because Monkey isn't done growing, and while it works this winter (aka it's not falling off his head) it should fit PERFECTLY next winter.

Here's a pic of what hers looks like:

And here's what my finished product looks like. No, the right ear flap is not smaller than the left, it's just how it was laying on the table at the time:

Pinecone Elf on a Shelf

These are Ms Perfect's Martha's elves

I found this tutorial for Pinecone Elves and couldn't resist. We all know that the Elf on a Shelf has gotten incredibly popular (and a super fun activity!), but if you're like me $30 seems like a lot for a doll and a book. So, I thought that these little "Santa's Helpers" would be a great substitute! I made all 3 of mine for less than $10, and now I have 3 elves instead of just one. Plus, you can find Elf on a Shelf ideas all over the internet, so you can still participate in the fun!

A couple of suggestions:

• If you don't want to buy the acrylic paint (or you don't have any) for the cheeks, use pink eye shadow. I used a small eye shadow brush, wet it down a little, and dipped it in the eye shadow. Then I just dabbed it on! I felt like I had more control over it, plus, since I have a whole eye shadow palate, I had a lot of shades of pink to choose from
• When you get everything cut and sewn as you want it, use your hot glue gun to secure them in place. That way you don't risk them falling off at inopportune moments!
• Skip the bell/bead/ball on the hat. I didn't really care for it, and it's an unnecessary expense unless you already have them around the house. 

Enjoy!

These are mine, complete with the "village" I put out every year

Christmas Card Garland Tutorial

I've seen several versions of the Christmas Card Garland online, but all of them seem so specific. I wanted something that gave a little more freedom with how it's constructed, while still looking beautiful. So here's my version, hopefully you all like it!
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Christmas Card Garland

Supplies

• Wide ribbon...you can use wired or unwired, festive or plain. I would suggest 2-3" ribbon, just for stability and to get a real feel for the "backbone" of your project.
• Thin ribbon-I use this to make the "hangers" along the ribbon and at both ends
• Wood Clothespins. I got a pack of 24 from AC Moore for just under $3
• Scrapbook Paper...make this as plain or fancy as you want. You can use holiday themed or whatever suits you. (Optional, you can skip this step if you just want plain painted clothespins)
• Paint...Whatever you think is going to work best to paint the clothespins, in colors that you like and that go with the feel of your project
• Mod Podge-I used the gloss
• Foam Brush
• Small Paint Brush(es)
• Hot Glue Gun
• Scissors
• Pen/Pencil
• Waxed Paper (to make clean up easier)
• Embellishments that will fit on your clothespin (optional)

Construction

Step 1: Lay down a piece of waxed paper that is big enough to fit all of your clothespins. Paint your clothespins in your selected colors. You need to make sure to paint one "face" (the flat side), the small ends, and the two sides where the pieces of the clothespins come together. Whatever you feel will show. You only need to paint one "face" because the other one will be covered with scrapbook paper (or not, if you choose to skip that step). Make sure to do enough coats to achieve the color you want (I used 2 coats). If you are not using the scrapbook paper, skip to step 4.

Step 2: When your clothespins have dried, lay the "face" of one on the wrong side of the scrapbook paper. Trace around the edge of the clothespin, getting as close as possible. Cut out your piece of paper. Repeat for all clothespins.

Trace Around Clothes Pin

Step 3: Mod Podge your scrapbook paper pieces onto the unpainted face of the clothespins. Using the foam brush, put a layer of mod podge on both the clothespin and the wrong side of the paper. Place the paper on the clothespin, mod podged sides together, and line up edges. Make sure to press down the paper well and keep rubbing it so that bubbles don't form. When you are sure that the paper is on there to your liking, use the foam brush to put a layer of mod podge over top of the paper...it will dry clear.

Step 4: After Mod Podge has dried (I would give it overnight, it can stay a bit tacky for a while)Hot glue your embellishments to your clothespins (on top of the scrapbook paper, if you used it). I chose to use "jewels" for my embellishment, just to give it more bling. I have seen buttons, felt bows, little Christmas Trees, berries, etc. used. Just go with what feels right to you...even if that's not putting anything on there!

Step 5: Cut your wide ribbon to the length you need. I chose to make mine about 2 1/2 yards long, so that it would hang where I wanted and still have a bit of "swag."

Step 6: Cut lengths of your thin ribbon 4" long, as many as you need to achieve the swag you want. I didn't want my swag to be too long, so I cut 4 lengths. Hot glue the thin ribbon to the back of the wide ribbon at evenly spaced intervals. On the ends, make sure to fold the end of the thick ribbon back over the thin, so that raw edges don't show.

Step 7: Hot glue the BACK of each clothespin to the FRONT of the thick ribbon. Space them however you like. I tried to be as even as possible, because I'm a little OCD that way.

YOU'RE DONE! I used command hooks to hang my garland from the counter that divides my living room from my kitchen. I love these because they are barely noticable, and come off clean. 

Enjoy!

Stylized Ear Warmer

So, I found this great ear warmer tutorial over on Pinterest. One version of the finished product looks like this:

I love this. It's easy, it's fast, and it's a great gift!

Here's what my finished product looks like:

I liked the look of one big flower on there. Of course, the picture isn't the best because it's not in natural light, but you get the general idea.

If you're interested in it, here is the link to the original tutorial over at Delia Creates. (OK, it's a link to her simplified tutorial, but she also links to the first tutorial on there if you're interested.)

I made this one as a gift, but I liked it so much I just may make one for myself as well!

Coming Soon: December 2011 Edition

This month will NOT be all tutorials (sorry). We're busy, as everyone is this month, so some things will just be examples of what I have made. If I have made one item off of a tutorial and NOT off of a pattern that I bought, I will be sure to include a link. Oh, and the pictures here are EXAMPLES of what the finished product could look like. I will include pics of the ones I make in the actual posts.

Wednesday, Dec 7: Gift Idea...Stylized Ear Warmer

Wednesday, Dec 14: Christmas Card Garland Tutorial

Wednesday, Dec 21: Pinecone Elf on a Shelf

Wednesday, Dec 28: Winter Aviator Hat! (Boy Version)

Fuzzy Muzzle Tiger Hat Pattern

I wrote this because I needed a hat for a newborn and a 6-12 month infant. The 3-6 month size was created out of that, since I passed the sizing needs for that. Note that I have not actually made the 12 Month-3 Year or the 3-10 Year size, so the rounds for these are estimated. If I ever need to make those sizes, I will update the pattern to reflect any changes that need to be made and I will update hat measurements.

Please do not reproduce or sell this pattern. I like it to be free, but I also want credit for creating it! Feel free to sell anything you make from this pattern, but make sure to include on your listings and with your finished product that the pattern was courtesy of Stephanie at Crafty Capable. Thanks!

Supplies Used:
Bernat Satin Yarn in Tangerine
Bernat Satin Yarn in Ebony
Lion Brand Fun Fur Eyelash Yarn in White
Small amount of Bernat Satin Yarn in Snow
H hook
G hook

Stitches Used:
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
Sl st: Slip stitch
SC2tog: Single Crochet 2 together See Video Here

*Note: You will be hooking 2 rows of orange and one row of black down the length of the hat. To avoid fastening off each color as you finish the row, carry the unused color through by pulling the used color underneath it before completing your sl st at the end of each row. This will only be an issue at the completion of the first of each set of 2 orange rows, so that your black yarn carries through. It will not be visible when you turn the hat right side out.

• Round 1: Begin with your orange (aka tangerine) yarn and create a Magic Loop. Ch 2, and make 8HDC. Join with a sl st. to 2nd chain of CH2. (8HDC)
• Round 2: Ch 2, DC in same st as sl st and next st, *2 HDC in next*. Repeat from * around.  Join with a sl st using black yarn.  (16HDC)
• Round 3: With black (aka ebony) yarn, Ch 2, DC in same st as sl st and next st. *2HDC in next, HDC in next  st*. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st using orange yarn. Ch 2, turn. (24HDC)
• Round 4: With orange yarn, HDC in same st as sl st and next 2 sts. *2HDC in next, HDC in next 2 sts.* Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st.  (32HDC)
• Round 5: Ch 2, DC in same st as sl st and next 3 sts. *2HDC in next, HDC in next 3 sts.* Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st using black yarn..  (40HDC)

*For Newborn size, continue to newborn sizing instructions. Hat will measure approximately 3.5" in DIAMETER and approximately 11.5" in CIRCUMFERENCE at this point.

• Round 6:Ch 2, With black yarn, HDC in same st as sl st and next 4 sts. *2HDC in next, HDC in next 4.* Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st using orange yarn. (48HDC)

              *For 3-6 month size, continue to 3-6 month sizing instructions. Hat will measure approximately 4.5" in DIAMETER and 13" in CIRCUMFERENCE at this point.

• Round 7: Ch 2,  ith orange yarn, HDC in same st as sl st and next 5 sts. *2HDC in next, HDC in next 5 sts.* Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st. (56HDC)

               *For 6-12 month size, continue to 6-12 month sizing instructions. Hat will measure approximately 5.5" in DIAMETER and 16" in CIRCUMFERENCE at this point.

• Round 8: Ch 2. HDC in same st as sl st and next 6 sts. *2HDC in next, HDC in next 6 sts.* Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st using black yarn. (64HDC)

               *For 12 month-3 year size AND 3-10 year size, continue to 12 month-10 year sizing instructions. 

Newborn Size

• Rounds 6-14: Beginning with black yarn in row 6 (the color of the yarn you use will be determined by where you are in the tiger striping), Ch 2, DC in next st (not the same st as the sl st) and in each st around. This includes the st at the base of your CH1.(40HDC)

*Please note, you will be continuing to alternate 2 rows of orange and 1 row of black to achieve the tiger striping. After finishing, the newborn size will measure approximately 5.5" in HEIGHT and approximately 12.5" in CIRCUMFERENCE.

• Fasten off and weave in ends. Tighten Magic Loop. Continue to Ear Flap Instructions.

3-6 Month Size

• Rounds 7-18: Beginning with orange yarn in row 7 (the color of the yarn you use will be determined by where you are in the tiger striping),Ch 2, HDC in next st (not the same st as the sl st) and in each st around. This includes the st at the base of your CH1 (48HDC)

*Please note, you will be continuing to alternate 2 rows of orange and 1 row of black to achieve the tiger striping. After finishing, the 3-6 month size will measure approximately 6.5" in HEIGHT and approximately 14.5" in CIRCUMFERENCE.

• Fasten off and weave in ends.Tighten Magic Loop. Continue to Ear Flap Instructions.

6-12 Month Size

• Rounds 8-16: Beginning with orange yarn in row 8 (the color of the yarn you use will be determined by where you are in the tiger striping), Ch 2, DC in next st (not the same st as the sl st) and in each st around. This includes the st at the base of your CH1 (56HDC)

*Please note, you will be continuing to alternate 2 rows of orange and 1 row of black to achieve the tiger striping. After finishing, the 6-12 month size will measure approximately 7" in HEIGHT and approximately 18" in CIRCUMFERENCE.

• Fasten off and weave in ends.Tighten Magic Loop. Continue to Ear Flap Instructions.

12 Month-10 Year Size
*Note: These two sizes are the same except for the length. Please be aware that you will finish the 12 Month-3 Year size after round  and the 3-10 Year size will be completed after all rounds are completed.

• Rounds 9-20: Beginning with black yarn in row 9 (the color of the yarn you use will be determined by where you are in the tiger striping), HDC in next st (not the same st as the sl st) and in each st around. This includes the st at the base of your CH1 (64HDC)

*Note: fasten off for 12 Month-3 Year size. For 3-10 Year size, continue to final rounds below.

• Rounds 9-22: Continuing in the 2 orange/1 black pattern, HDC in next st (not the same st as the sl st) and in each st around. This includes the st at the base of your CH1 (64HDC)
• Fasten off and weave in ends.Tighten Magic Loop. Continue to Ear Flap Instructions.

Ear Flap Instructions
*This part of the pattern is written with the newborn instructions first, then the subsequent sizes in parentheses separated by commas. It will look like this: Newborn (3-6mo, 6-12mo, 12mo-3 years, 3 years-10 years). When the rounds start to differ, the round numbers will look the same way.

• Round 1: With the hat right side out and the back seam facing you, count 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) to the left of the seam. in the 5th (5th, 6th, 6th, 6th) stitch join your yarn, continuing the pattern of rows that you used in the main body of the hat. (i.e.: If you had just completed your black row, you would join orange yarn). SC in same st as join and next 9 (11, 14, 14, 14) sts. Ch 1, turn. 10SC(12, 15, 15, 15)

*Note: on the last stitch of rows where you will be switching color, do the following: insert hook into stitch, YO and pull through, YO USING NEW COLOR and pull through both loops on hook. Ch 1, turn. You will have to fasten off your orange yarn at the end of each set of orange rows, but you can carry the black through.

• Rounds 2-4 (2-5, 2-6, 2-7, 2-7): Alternating colors in the same pattern as the hat (2 orange, 1 black) SC in same st as CH1 and each st across. 10SC (12, 15, 15, 15)
• Round 5 (6, 7, 8, 8): SC2tog, SC in next 6 (8, 11, 11, 11) sts, SC2tog. CH1, Turn. 8SC (10, 13, 13, 13)
• Continue reducing each row by 2 until you have completed a row with 4SC (or 5, for the sizes with odd  numbers of stitches in the rows.) Fasten off and weave in ends.

Second Ear Flap
For second ear flap, with right side out and back seam facing you, count 14sts (16, 20, 20, 20) from back seam and attach yarn (in appropriate color to continue the pattern. Follow ear flap instructions for the second ear flap.

If your final round on the second ear flap is with black yarn, DO NOT FASTEN OFF. Weave in all other ends and continue to finishing instructions at the end of the pattern. If the final round on second ear flap is not with black yarn, fasten off, weave in all ends, and attach black yarn, Continue to finishing instructions.

Edging Instructions

• With G hook and black yarn from second ear flap, SC in each stitch around the perimeter of hat, making sure to hook around the black yarn that you carried through along the edges of the ear flaps. Fasten off.
• Leaving a 12 inch (14, 15, 15, 16) tail, attach black and orange yarn at the tip of one ear flap. SC in each stitch around. Fasten off, leaving another 12 inch tail. 
• Cut 11 24 inch (28, 30, 30, 32) sections of black and orange yarn (total of 22 lengths of yarn). separate them into 2 bundles, one containing 6 of each color and the other containing 5 of each color.

Ears (Make 2)
These are worked in the round, use stitch markers if you need to. As with the ears, the different sizes are noted in parentheses.

Using Orange Yarn and H hook:

• Round 1: Make a magic loop. Ch1, 6SC (6, 8, 8, 8) in loop. 6SC (6, 8, 8, 8)
• Round 2: 2 SC in each st around. 12SC (12, 16, 16, 16)
• Round 3: *1SC in next, 2SC in next*. Repeat from * around. 18SC (18, 24, 24, 24)
• Round 4: Ch 1, turn. SC in 1st chain from hook and in next 6 sts (6, 8, 8, 8). 3SC in next st. SC in next 6 sts (6,8, 8, 8). 3SC in next, SC in next 3 sts (including base of CH1 st) (3, 5, 5, 5). Sl st to first stitch in the row, then fasten off, leaving a very long tail. You will need enough to go around 2/3 of the ear later on. Tighten Magic Loop.

Repeat Rounds 1-3 with White Eyelash Yarn and G hook. Fasten off. Tighten Magic Loop.

*Notes on working with eyelash yarns: crochet LOOSELY. It can be difficult to see your stitches otherwise. When you slip stitch this section to the orange section, some of the "eyelashes" will get caught in the stitches. If you want a cleaner look use your yarn needle to pull them out and then trim them to desired length.

Weave in center end of orange and both ends of white eyelash. Use the ends of the eyelash to fill in any gaps you may see in the loose crochet when weaving in. Trim to desired Fluffiness.

• Now, using the long tail of orange, SC around 2/3 of the edge of eyelash and orange sections, making sure white is centered in the orange and that you are stitching through both sections. Remember to put 3 stitches at the "points." If you did not leave a long enough tail, fasten off the orange when you are almost out, weave in ends, and attach orange yarn again. Continue until white is attached to orange, and leave a long enough tail to sew ear to hat. Repeat with other ear.

Muzzle (Make 2)

Using Eyelash yarn and H hook

• Round 1: Make a Magic Loop. Ch 1, 8SC in ring (8SC)
• Round 2: 2SC in each st around(16SC)
• Round 3: *1SC in next, 2SC in next*. Repeat from * around. (24SC)
• Round 4: *1SC in next 2 sts, 2SC in next*. Repeat from * around. (32SC)
• For Newborn-3 Month and 3-6 Month sizes, fasten off, leaving enough of a tail to sew the muzzle onto hat. Tighten Magic loop.
• Round 5: *1SC in next 3 sts, 2SC in next*. Repeat from * around. (40SC)

Make sure to trim your muzzle to desired fluffiness.

Nose

Use Black Yarn and G hook

• Round 1: Ch 3. SC in 1st st from hook and next 2 sts (Make sure you are crocheting in wrong side of stitch). (6SC)
• Note: This is 6SC because you are counting the CH3 ad 3 sts and the 3 sts you worked in the wrong side as 3 STS
• Round 2: Working around the point where you started your Ch3, SC in next 2 sts, 2SC in next 2 sts, SC in next 2 sts. Sl st to first st in round.(8SC)
• For Newborn-3 Months, Fasten off. Leave a long enough tail to sew onto hat
• Round 3: SC in same stitch as sl st and next 3 sts. 2SC in next 3 sts. SC in last 2 sts and the sl st. Sl st to first st in row. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to sew nose to hat. (13SC)

Eyes

Using Black yarn & G hook (for Newborn-3 Months and 3-6 Months) or H hook (for 6-12 Months, 12 Months-3 Years, and 3-10 Years)

• Round 1: Make a Magic Loop. 6SC in the loop (6, 8, 8, 8). Sl st to join. Fasten off. 6SC (6, 8, 8, 8)

Now switch to White Yarn.

• Round 2: Insert hook in same st as Sl st. 2SC in same st and next 2 sts. (2, 3, 3, 3). Sl st in next st. 6SC (6, 8, 8, 8) +1 Sl st
• Round 3: TURN WITHOUT CH1. sl st in first SC. *SC in next, 2SC in next* 2 times (2 times, 3 times, 3 times, 3 times). Sl st in next, Sl st in next (will be a black st). Fasten off. 6SC (6, 9, 9, 9) +3 sl sts.

Finishing

Almost done now! Using a yarn needle, sew on your facial features. Make sure you sew the muzzle on BEFORE you sew the nose on. 

Once all facial features are on, using black yarn sew on 3 whiskers on each side of muzzle, if desired. 

You're done! I know it's a long process, especially with the eyelash yarn, but I think the end result is worth it! Enjoy!

Good Deeds

I really want to do more good deeds this holiday season. Having Monkey when I was told I probably wouldn't be able to have children has made me so incredibly grateful, and I really want to do something for others. The problem? Monkey is here, Captain Caffeine works, and we don't want to pay a babysitter. So I've been looking around online to see if there's anything I can do for others that I am capable of (i.e. not volunteering time, or having to go anywhere crazy to complete it....Monkey is still learning that he can't always be the center of attention).

What have I found? That I can crochet/craft for others. I'm always working on something, but I don't want it all around my house. Plus I can do this while interacting with Monkey, or when he's napping. It's on my time, my way. And the best part? I can do these things year round.

If you haven't seen my craft blog, please check it out. It's called Creations A La Mode and it's just a log of the crafts I make...some I sell, some I'm just plain proud of, and there are some tutorials.

Here are a couple of organizations I have found that I'm going to try to contribute to:

Mitten Commitment: This is a project hoping to help those who do not have warm clothing, specifically mittens, for the winter. It's super easy to become a participant! You make mittens (crochet, knit, sewn, whatever) and send them in. Any style, any size! This is great for me because it gives me a way to try new things (I've only made one pair of mittens for a friend, but I would love to try more!)

Project Linus: This organization accepts blankets for children who are seriously ill, traumatized, or otherwise in need. They have chapters all over the US that you can donate items to, all you have to do is make a blanket (any style, any size), find a local chapter, and donate!

The Hat Box Foundation: Once again, very easy. This organization accepts knit and crocheted hats of all shapes and sizes for cancer survivors and patients across the country. You make them and send them in...that's it! I love this one especially since my grandmother is a breast cancer survivor.

There are a TON of great craft charities out there, you just have to look!  I look for national ones, or at least organizations that almost always have a chapter in multiple locations in multiple states, since we move so much. I would hate to become attached to a charity and then move somewhere that I couldn't contribute anymore!

I think this would be a great way for me to consistently give back as well...if I could do one or two things a month, I would be happy. It would probably be more if I only did hats, but if I want to do blankets as well then I have to keep it realistic!

Fabric Bin Tutorial

This bin came about because my son ripped apart the wicker basket we were using for the dog toys. It's far from perfect (I was in a rush because I couldn't stand the toys to be all over the place and having nowhere to put them) but it does the job. I'm sure if you took more time it would look much better!
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Fabric Bin Tutorial
(With optional lettering and handles)

Supplies: 

1 1/2 yards fabric (or 3/4 yards for exterior and 3/4 yards for interior)*

1 1/2 yards fusible peltex*

1 yard lightweight fusible interfacing**

Small amount black felt (optional)

Rotary Cutter and mat

Iron

Pressing Cloth

* You can make the bin bigger. All steps are the same, just increase your measurements and the amount of fabric, peltex, and interfacing you purchase.

**I did not remember to get the interfacing (oops). I will describe how to use it in the project, but note that I ended up having to sew my peltex in place rather than using the (much easier) interfacing method.

Step 1: Out of your fabric, cut:

                     2 strips 3 1/2" X 11" (optional...for handles)

                     2 pieces 12" X 7"

                     4 pieces 7" X 17"

                     4 pieces 7" X 13"

              From your peltex, cut:

                     2 strips 3/4" X 8 1/2" (optional...for handles)

                     2 pieces 11" X 16"

                     4 pieces 6" X 16"

                     4 pieces 6" X 12"

              From your interfacing, cut:

                     1 piece 12" X 7"

                     2 pieces 7" X 17"

                     2 pieces 7" X 13"

Step 2: Fold each 7" X 17" piece of fabric in half. Using a straight edge and your rotary cutter, cut the fabric so that the top edge measures 8.5" and the bottom edge measures 6". Repeat for remaining 3 pieces. *The picture shows the top edge measuring 9 inches...I had to re-cut it later. 

Step 3: Repeat Step 2 with the 7" X 13" pieces, with the top edge measuring 6.5" and the bottom edge measuring 3.5". Repeat steps 2 and 3 with the interfacing.

Step 4: Repeat steps 2 and 3 with the peltex pieces....the longer pieces measure 8" on the top and 5.5" on the bottom (when folded in half) and the shorter pieces measure 6" on the top and 3" on the bottom.

Step 5:  Fuse the two 11" X 16" peltex pieces together using pressing cloth and following manufacturer's directions. 

Step 6: Fuse 2 of the 6" X 12" peltex pieces together. Repeat with remaining two 6" X 12" pieces

Step 7: Repeat step 6 with the 6" X 16" peltex pieces. If you would like lettering on the outside of your bin, continue to Step 8. If not, skip to Step 10.

Step 8: Letters. Choose a font in your favorite word processing program. Make it bold, and then make it as large as possible while still fitting into an 11" width and 5" height. I used the Showcard Gothic font and made it 135 for size. When satisfied, print it out and cut out your letters.

Step 9: Trace your letters onto the black felt.

Step 10: Cut out your letters, place them on the exterior piece of fabric, pin and stitch in place (the exterior pieces of fabric are what you will be fusing your peltex and interfacing to). 

Step 11: Center the fused 11" X 16" peltex pieces on the wrong side of the 12" X 17" fabric piece (make sure that one of these fabric pieces has the lettering on it, if you chose to place lettering on your bin). Place the 12" X 17" piece of interfacing on top of the peltex, fusible side down. Fuse in place using pressing cloth and manufacturer's instructions. Make sure that the interfacing's edges match up with the fabric's raw edges, and that the peltex is secured in place by the interfacing fusing to the fabric around the edge.

Step 12: Repeat Step 11 with the short and long sides of the bin. Remember that you will only be using 2 short side pieces and 2 long side pieces at this point, and that the peltex pieces should be 1/2" shorter on all sides than the fabric and interfacing.

Step 13: Take one short side piece and one long side piece (both with peltex). Match up one short edge of both pieces, with wider section at the top (on both pieces) and pin in place Stitch in place, using 1/2" seam (you should be sewing right next to the peltex).

Step 14: Repeat on other short edge of the long side using other short side piece. Finish by attaching remaining long side piece to the free edges of the short side pieces, leaving you with a "ring."

Step 15: Attach the bottom piece (with peltex). This part can be a bit tricky. With the right side of the bottom piece facing the right sides of your peltex/fabric "ring," pin in place. Then CAREFULLY sew in place, making sure there are no holes at the corners. You should end up with a "basket" with a top of raw edges, the interior being the right side of the fabric and the exterior being the fused peltex side. Repeat steps 9-11 with the plain fabric pieces...leaving you with 2 "baskets." If you are making straps, continue to Step 16. If not, go to Step 19.

Step 16: Make your straps. Taking your 3 1/2" X 11" pieces of fabric, fold in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch long edge (I mistakenly stitched a short edge as well, it's not necessary. Repeat with other strap piece.

Step 17: Turn straps right side out. Press.

Step 18: Carefully slide one 3/4" X 8 1/2" piece of peltex into each strap, centering them.

Step 19: Putting it all together. Turn the peltex "basket" right side out. Place the plain fabric "basket" inside of it, wrong sides together, matching short and long sides and corner seams.

Step 20: Carefully turn the raw edges of both "baskets inward and pin in place. On the short sides, place your straps (if you chose to add straps) 2" from either side.

Step 21: Carefully top stitch around top of bin, removing pins as you go. Make sure the straps are caught in this top stitching so that they have been secured. And that's it, you're done! If you're really good and you matched your corner seams exceptionally well you may be able to stitch in a ditch down the corner seams, which will further secure your interior to your exterior. As for me...it's just for dog toys, I didn't care enough to do that step!

Enjoy!

Change in This Month's Lineup

Well, there is no way my son's baby quilt will be done by the end of the month. I'm working on baby gifts and things that friends have asked me to make for them, so I'm a bit swamped...I'm hoping to have it done by Christmas so that he has a special present to open then.

Instead I will be posting a pattern for the Fuzzy Muzzle Tiger Beanie. Check it out!

One last thing: because Blogger has a little snafu where what you type in the draft window is NOT how it appears when published, I have revamped how I write my tutorials. There are still all of the same components, but instead of the step being side-by-side with the picture (when available) the step will now come first and the picture(s) directly below it. Hope it's not too confusing, but this way it's a lot less frustrating for me. I hate it when I type up a post and have it looking just like I want it to, but then I have to go back and forth making adjustments so that the published post looks that way (and consequently my draft looks all sorts of weird!)

Thanks!

Retro Flashback: Snood Tutorial

For Halloween this year, I didn't want to spend any money on my costume, and decided to go as a 1950's housewife/pin up girl. I did a pin up photoshoot for my husband last year for our anniversary, so I have the hair and make-up know how, and the wardrobe (for the most part). The only thing I was really missing was a Snood. Lucky for me, they're pretty easy to make! I used This Tutorial, but found it a little difficult to follow, so I adapted it into wording that worked better for me. I also did mine a bit smaller than the other tutorial, because it seemed like it would be too long for the amount of hair that I have.
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Supplies:
Small amount of yarn (probably about 2 oz)
D Crochet hook
Thin elastic headband
1 yd. Gosgrain Ribbon for bow (optional)

Stitches used:
TC=Treble Crochet
SC=Single Crochet
Sl St=Slip Stitch

Round 1: Chain 53

Round 2: TC in 12th chain from hook. *ch 4 sts, skip 4 sts, TC in next st*. Repeat from * to end of chain, TC in last st. Turn

Round 3:  Ch 9. TC in 1st TC of last row that you come to. *Ch 4, TC in TC of last row.*. Repeat from * until you have TC'd in last TC of previous row. Ch 4, TC in 5th st of turning chain, ch 4, TC in same st as last TC. Turn.

Rounds 4-8: Repeat Round 3.

Round 9: Ch 9. TC in 1st TC of last row. *Ch 4, TC in next TC*. Repeat from * until you have TC'd in last TC of previous row. Ch 4, TC in 5th st of turning chain. Turn.

Rounds 10-16: Repeat Round 9

Round 17: Ch 5. TC in 1st TC of last row. *Ch 4, TC in next TC*. Repeat from * until there is 1 TC left in previous row. Ch 4, YO 3 times. Hook into next TC in previous row. YO, pull through (5 loops on hook). YO, pull through 2 loops on hook 3 times (leaves 2 loops on hook). YO 3 times, hook into 5th st of turning chain, pull through (6 loops on hook). YO, pull through 2 loops 3 times (leaves 3 loops on hook). YO, Pull through all 3 loops (This is a TC dec for the purposes of this tutorial). Turn.

Rounds 18-20: Ch 5. TC in 1st TC of last row. *Ch 4, TC in next TC*. Repeat from * until there are  2 TC's left in previous row. TC dec between those two TC's.

Finishing: SC around the headband, working 2 SC's into each "mesh" space you created. (aka 2 SC's between each set of TC's around).

You can sew on the bow at what will be the top of your snood if you want.

Enjoy!

Sewing Machine Pin Cushion Tutorial

I saw a great little pincushion on Pinterest the other day and decided I wanted one. It attached to the person's sewing machine with ribbon...which was the very first thing I wanted to change. I wanted mine to use Velcro and a fabric strap. I also wanted mine bigger, more colorful, and in a spiffier shape. Here's what resulted, hope you like it!
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Sewing Machine Pin Cushion

Materials:
Up to 6 coordinating fabrics (you need 2 3X3 squares of 5 of the fabrics, and enough of the 6th to cover a button and to have a 3" strip that wraps around the point of your machine where you want to attach the pincushion)
1 shaft button (1/2"-1" in diameter)
Poly fill stuffing
Thread
Sewing Machine
Measuring tape
Turning Tool
Needle
scissors/rotary cutter and mat
Iron and Ironing board
Hot glue gun and glue stick
Velcro (3/4" square. I used adhesive Velcro, and then top stitched)
Embroidery Thread

Covering the Button

Step 1: Cut a 2X2 square of the fabric that you have the most of & lay the button right side down onto the wrong side of the fabric.

Step 2: Hot Glue the four corners of the fabric to the back side of the button

Step 3: You will now see four points created from folding the corners in. Carefully place a dot of hot glue near the edge of the button and fold the points down to the glue, holding them in place.(No, the back isn't pretty, but the front looks good, I promise!)

The Straps


Step 1: Measure around the part of the sewing machine where you want your pincushion to go. From here you have 2 options: Option 1 is to cut that measurement in half, add an inch to that measurement, and cut your straps that are 3" wide and however many inches long. For example: my machine's body measured 22", so I cut 2 straps that were 3"w X 12"l. Option 2 is to cut one long strap that is 3"w and one inch longer than the measurement. Had I done this method, I would have cut one strap that was 3"w X 23"l.

Step 2: Fold each strap in half lengthwise, right sides together. Press.

Step 3: Sew a seam 1/2" from raw edges of one short edge and the long edge. Clip your corners, being careful not to cut into your seam.

Step 4: Turn your straps, using a turning tool (a knitting needle also works well) to help push out your corners.

Step 5: Turn the raw edges of the open end of the strap 1/2" in to the inside of the strap. Top stitch around all 4 sides of the strap.

The Pincushion

Step 1: Out of your remaining 5 fabrics (or however many you choose) cut 2 3"X3" squares out of each. You need to end up with 5 3"X3" squares.

Step 2: Using your cutting mat to help, Cut two of the corners off of each square sot hat from point to point is 4" and from clipped corner to clipped corner is 3".

Step 4: Cut each square so that from each original corner left, the line goes to the center point of the clipped edge on each side. You will end up with a diamond that is 4"X3". (See picture)

Step 5: Right sides together, take 2 of the diamonds and sew a 1/2" seam along ONE edge. Continue doing this with 3 more diamonds, sewing all together in a circle and joining the first diamond to the last. This means that all points should be joined in the center, and each diamond should have 2 adjacent sides sewn to 2 different diamonds. (It should look like the picture when right side up). Repeat with remaining 5 diamonds. These will create the two sides of your pincushion.

Step 6: Attach your strap by sewing it (or them) to the RIGHT side of ONE of your stars.

Step 7: Right sides together, sew around the perimeter of the star (1/2" seam), leaving ONE section open for turning.

Step 8: Turn right side out, using turning tool to ease out points.

Step 9: Stuff your star to your liking with the poly fill. Be careful not to over stuff and pull you seams too tight, but you want it stuffed enough so that it is an effective pincushion.

Step 10: Using needle and thread, slip stitch your remaining raw edge closed, turning raw edges to the interior to hide them.

Step 11: Attach your Velcro. I used pre-cut squares of adhesive Velcro and then top stitched them in place. Sew one side on the end of a strap, and then place your pincushion as it will go on your machine. Then place your second square so that the two line up. If your second strap is too long, attach your Velcro and then clip the end of the strap, leaving enough length to turn the raw edges inward and top stitch them in place. (I had to make that adjustment).

Step 12: Using your needle, thread all strands of your embroidery thread. You will need one LONG continuous strand. From back to front, stitch through the center and then out (always going all the way through the pincushion) along all seams. I would do a stitch, leave a space, then another stitch. I would catch the spaces I left on my way back to center on each seam. Make sure you end by again coming through the center from back to front.

Step 13: Using remaining embroidery thread, attach your button securely to the center of the pincushion. You're done! Strap that baby on the machine and you'll have a convenient, close place to stick your pins.

Enjoy!